Liquid Silicone Rubber Flower Pot Mold Making Tool - 24H Rapid Curing, Accurately Replicates Complex Patterns, Customizable Color and Hardness. Contact Ms. Chen for inquiries: 13662816580 (same number for WeChat).

Key Steps: Phased Operation (with precautions) 

1. Original Model Treatment and Mold Frame Fixation Clean the original model: Wipe the flower pot original model with alcohol or clean water to remove surface dust and oil stains (oil stains may cause silicone not to adhere to the mold, affecting pattern replication), then air dry for use. Fix the original model: Place the flower pot original model into the mold frame, and use double-sided tape to secure the bottom of the original model (to prevent displacement during silicone pouring). Ensure an even gap between the original model and the inner wall of the mold frame (recommended ≥1cm to ensure mold strength). Apply release agent (optional): If the original model has deep patterns or is prone to sticking to silicone, apply a thin layer of release agent and wipe evenly with a cotton cloth (avoid accumulation that may clog patterns). 

2. Liquid Silicone Rubber Mixing (Core: Accurate Ratio + Defoaming) Weighing and ratio: According to the instructions for silicone and curing agent (e.g., 10:1), use an electronic scale to weigh silicone and curing agent separately, then pour into a clean container (it is recommended to mix enough silicone at once to avoid hardness differences from multiple batches). Stir evenly: Use a stirring rod to stir slowly in the same direction, avoiding vigorous stirring that may produce excessive bubbles (stir for about 3-5 minutes, ensuring no curing agent residue at the bottom of the container, otherwise, localized curing failure may occur). Defoaming treatment: Simple method: After stirring, let it stand for 5-10 minutes to allow surface bubbles to naturally rise and burst. Professional method: If a vacuum machine is available, place it in the vacuum machine for defoaming for 1-2 minutes (if no vacuum machine is available, this step can be skipped, but standing for defoaming is necessary; otherwise, the mold may have bubble holes). 

3. Silicone Pouring and Curing Slow pouring: Slowly pour the defoamed silicone along the inner wall of the mold frame, avoiding direct impact on the original model (to prevent displacement or flattening of patterns). Continue until the silicone completely covers the original model and is 1-2cm higher than the highest point of the original model (to ensure mold integrity). Secondary defoaming: After pouring, gently tap the outer wall of the mold frame (3-5 times) to allow hidden bubbles inside the silicone to rise to the surface and burst (reducing mold defects). Standing for curing: Place the mold in a cool, ventilated area (avoid direct sunlight or high temperatures, as they may affect silicone performance). Wait for curing according to the silicone instructions (condensation-type silicone typically fully cures in 24 hours; if the ambient temperature is low, it may extend to 36 hours). 

4. Demolding and Mold Trimming Careful demolding: After curing, first disassemble the mold frame, then slowly peel the silicone mold away from the original model by hand (start from the edges, avoid forceful pulling to prevent mold tearing). If the original model has complex patterns, gently twist the silicone mold to assist demolding. Mold trimming: Use scissors or a utility knife to trim the burrs and bubble holes (if any) on the edges of the silicone mold. If there are small bubble holes, apply a small amount of silicone to patch and cure (this will not affect usability). Check if the internal patterns of the mold are clear (clear patterns indicate successful replication, and the mold can be used for subsequent pouring of resin/cement or other materials to make flower pots).